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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.